Thursday, July 26 2007 - Washington, DC

I left work on the 5A bus to Dulles International Airport. It came into DC on-time, but was a few minutes late to the terminal due to traffic. once at the terminal I checked-in to the MaxJet counter and was directed to the "Premium Passenger Security" checkpoint which had a much shorter line than the rest of the security checkpoints (around 10 minutes). I was able to get in with my carry-on bag and backpack, so I didn't need to check any bags.

Once through it was off to the Northwest 1st class lounge where there was free beer, wine, and snacks. Our plane was a little delayed, but it wasn't a nuisance since we were being wined and dined. It definitely beat waiting at the gates.

Upon boarding the plane I was given champagne and a care package with toothpaste, a toothbrush, an eye mask, and socks. After a bit of a delay in the plane we took off and it was smoothing flying all the way. I had a veal main course with parmesan risotto, a Bordeaux, and a shiraz. For dessert I had a cheese plate. All the food was good - certainly better than normal airline fare - but it wasn't great. The seat almost fully reclined, and after watching "Tenacious D and the Pick of Destiny" on their electronic video player I went to sleep, not to wake until breakfast.

Friday July 27, 2007 - London, Bergamo, & Borgo Val di Taro

Breakfast on the plane consisted of a breakfast burrito and a chocolate croissant. Just before landing we were given Belgian chocolate truffles. Landing went smoothly and upon disembarkation we walked to an automated rail shuttle to customs. It was already full but I managed to squeeze on, which ended up well as I missed the later crowds for Non-EU customs. After a 15-20 minute wait, my passport was stamped and I walked through customs as nobody was there to do inspections. Once at the main terminal I made my way to O'Neills, an Irish bar, where I was to meet Ann-Marie. Patrons were already quaffing ales at 9 in the morning. My wait for Ann-Marie was short, about 20 minutes. When she arrived she ordered a traditional English Breakfast and I had a diet coke (my appetite already being sated from the airline breakfast.

Next we made our way to the check-in for our RyanAir flight, but unlike in the United States, you can only check-in for a flight when its desk is open. So we sat for a while until it did. We had to check my carry-on bag, so after paying the extra 10 Euros and upgrading Ann-Marie to priority boarding, we went through security. On the other side Ann-Marie bought some post cards and then we went to the gate. It was lunch time, so we grabbed some sandwiches and camped out at priority boarding. We were the first on the plane, got out seats, and survived RyanAir's endless barrage of come-ons and raffles. We landed in Milan-Bergamo airport and went through customs quickly and without inspection. After a 20 minute wait for out bags to travel a few hundred feet we were off.

Waiting in ther terminal was Sara, Ann-Marie's cousin. She came down with Gian-Maria, her boyfriend, in his sporty Citroen. The car was decked with numerous digital displays and was comfortable. We made the trip down the Autostrade back to Borgo Val di Taro where we were to stay at the Hotel mistrello. After about 2 hours ride we arrived at the apartment of Sara's parents, Theresa and Luigi, who provided us with spinach tortelli with butter and cheese, a torte with rice and zucchini, and fresh prosciutto. Dinner was served with red and white wines, and both of us had seconds (and thirds basking in the flavor of delicious food and the warmth of their hospitality. After dinner we went back to the hotel for some much needed rest.

Saturday July 28, 2007 - Borgo Val di Taro

After an all-too-short night's rest we were woken by a call from Ann-Marie's father informing us that he was waiting downstairs. We took showers, changed, and made our way down to the lobby where we joined her father, mother, and brother for cappuccino and pastries. The cappuccino was excellent (as it would universally be excellent in Borgo Val di Taro) and the pastries were also good. After our quick breakfast we hopped into her father's Alfa Romeo and took a drive into the mountains to see where her father had grown up.

The roads into the mountains were steep and narrow, making the shifting of the Alfa Romeo's manual transmission a challenge. It was, by American standards, a one lane road, but somehow it accommodated two-way traffic. Quite a feat, considering the perilous drops waiting for the unsuspecting motorist. Ann-Marie's father stopped the car numerous times to greet at least a dozen people he knew. The town was definitely a place where everybody knew everybody else - even expatriate relatives. We were welcomed warmly.

Ann-Marie's father showed us one of the fields where his father used to grow crops and pastured his horses. The view was spectacular, surrounded by mountain peaks that were speckled with far-off villages. We also stopped by his ancestral home, now vacant, with its command views of the countryside. In-between our visits we took refuge in the air conditioned car from the stifling Italian summer heat.

We had both lunch and diner at La Stazione, a converted former train station. For both meals we feasted on fried basta with prosciutto, salami, ham, and coppa. That was followed by a delicious set of pastas: totrelli with parmesan and butter, tortelli with mushrooms, and gnocci with a meat sauce. All throughout we had sparkling water and a delicious and effervescent red wine. The fresh deliciousness of the meal cannot be overstated. For dinner we had the same entrees, but were joined by many of Ann-Marie's relatives for an evening of great food, conversation, and friendliness.

Most of her relatives did not speak English, so I picked up clips and phrases when words resembled English or French. Even with the communication issues, everyone was very welcoming. After dinner theresa and Luigi drove us to our hotel and despite a carnival going outside, we got some much needed sleep.

Sunday, July 29, 2007 - Borgo Val Di Taro

This morning Ann-Marie's father gaveus a call before he arrived, so we were ready when he and Ann-Marie's brother arrived. After cappuccino and pastries we headed to a shopping center to get her mother some breakfast (we would pick her up next). Here again, Ann-Marie's father found people he know. Borgo Val di Taro is definitely a small world. Afterward we picked Ann-Marie's mother at their hotel and made our way up to Tiedoli where we attended mass in an ornate old church before Ann-Marie's aunt's 90th birthday celebration. We had prosciutto, rice salad, rice tortes, herb and spinach tortes, fresh parmesan, and free flowing home made wine. Afterward there were numerous cakes and pies. Everything was positively delicious.

After much conversation and picture taking, we visited an ancestral graveyard nearby and returned to songs being sung with backing guitar. Thresea took us up the mountain even further to a recreation areawhere we saw a house being built and beautiful mountain vistas. Afterward we joined Ann-Marie's parents to visit some relatives who had neighboring houses and eventually made our way back down to town where we had Pizza with Theresa and Luigi. After dinner we walked to a gelato bar for some dessert where we were joined by Theresa and Luigi's daughter Marta. From then it was back to the hotel for our last night in Borgo Val di Taro

Monday July 30, 2007 - Borgo Val di Taro & Rome

This morning we joined Ann-Marie's family at the outdoor market being held with everything from food to clothing to binoculars. Along the way they encountered family friends and her father's sister with whom we had cappuccino and pastries. After that we went back to the hotel where we bid adieu to her parents and made out way back to the market. After looking around for a bit we met up with Theresa for lunch and were met again by Marta. Theresa took us to the train station where we headed off on our train to La Spezia. From there we transfered to an intercity train in first class bound for Rome. The ride was comfortable and we had two seats facing each other by themselves. It was definitely a nice way to travel. We arrived in Rome with some daylight still remaining and took the H bus down to La Trastevere quarter to the Hotel Antico de Borgo de Trastevere. The accommodations were on a side street and nice, but very small - we didn't mind.

Breakfast was brought up to us each day as well. After situating ourselves in the hotel we made our way out to get some dinner. We went to a nearby place called Carlo Menta and had some decent food, but nothing to write home about. I had a gnocchi with mussels and clams followed by saltimboca washed down with a house red and sparkling water. Ann-Marie had rigatoni carbonnara and the saltimboca. Afterward we headed back to the hotel to get some rest.

Tuesday July 31, 2007 - Rome

We were woken to the knock on our door for room service with our complimentary breakfast. It consisted of pastries, cappuccino, yogurt, bread crisps, nutkao (like nutella), and cheese served with grapefruit juice. After hungrily devouring our morning repast we headed out into the hot Roman morning for the Vatican. Along the way we picked up some pizza near the Vatican and then made our well to the opulent sovereign nation. We went in through the gates in front of St. Peter's Cathedral and found out that we had to do a lot of walking around the border of the country to get to the museum. We were let into the complex, paid our entry fee, and started exploring some of the treasures within.

The first thing that strikes you is the sheer enormity and expense of the place. Thousands of years of tithing seems to have made its mark. The pictures are probably more adept at describing much of the place than I can write here, but suffice it to say it was impressive. We continued through the seemingly endless labyrinth that is the Vatican, eventually arriving at the Sistine Chapel. Here they do not allow photographs (presumably to drive sales at the gift shop -- they allow photos at the other chapels). It is everything you have heard. The artwork on the massive ceiling was nothing short of a masterpiece, and it was surprisingly well preserved after all the centuries. From there we made our way to St. Peters and took in the massive and beautiful cathedral. Looking skyward the immense height of the structure was incredible. Next we went to the crypt where many of the popes are entombed. Next, Ann-Marie had the idea that we should make the trek up to the Cupola.

We could pay one fee to take the elevator a little less than half the way, or pay a little less and walk the full 551 steps in the scorching Roman heat. Naturally, in for a penny, in for a pound, so we walked all the way up. The first 200 or so steps were deceptively easy as we circled around the elevator shaft. Once we got to the roof after the first set of stairs, little did we know it was about to get much worse. The stairs narrowed so that only one person could go through and the walls were covered in a smooth tile. The heat of the non-air conditioned structure made the times slick with human perspiration -- there was no handrail.

As we ascended, the stairs became more curvaceous and the hallway became slanted inward so that one had to walk somewhat at a diagonal stance. Finally the last set of steps was a tight circular staircase that could barely accommodate my size twelve shoes (only one could fit, my inner foot had to be rotated to get on). There was no handrail just a rope worn smooth and brown from countless hands clutching it in fear.

Eventually we were rewarded with sunlight from above and we saw the most beautiful view of Rome from what appeared from our vantage point to be its highest site. After enjoying the cool breezes afforded by our elevation, we descended the steps for the journey back down. When we arrived at ground levels in St. Peters, there was a distinct sound of chanting and holy music, so we went over and saw the tail end of a mass being performed just behind the Pope's altar. After its conclusion we made our way to the exits and made our way to the famed Spanish steps.

After snapping photos we made another climb up the stairs, albeit a less arduous one. Next we made our way to the Fountain of Trevi which was surrounded by tourists and street merchants. From there we went to see the exterior of the Pantheon which was unfortunately closed. From there we made our way back to the Trastavere and had dinner. I had a rigatoni carbonnara that was decent but not great, and we both had the worst service of the entire trip. From there we went back to our hotel for some much needed rest.

Wednesday, August 1, 2007 - Rome

After our morning repast we decided to walk over toward the Palatine Hill. We got the "Archaeology Card" that granted us access to the Palatine, the Coliseum, and many museums around town. Our first stop was the Palatine. The area is a treasure trove of ancient buildings, most in ruin. Here we say\w beautiful gardens, ancient fountains, and the ruins of Romulus' home. Next we found a very nice Trattoria where we feasted on prosciutto and pasta.

After lunch we went to the Coliseum Its trademark arches on arches design is internationally recognizable and once inside it was easy to marvel at the stadium where sea battles and gladiatorial events were held. Although in partial ruin, the structure was in pretty good shape and the archways provided vistas into Rome. Our next stop was to see some of the largest Roman baths ever constructed. These buildings look more like aircraft hangers than pools. The ceilings and upper levels were gone, as were the baths themselves, the the enormity of the structures was astounding. Some ancient floor work was visible in pieces and it was also impressive.

Next we made our way to the Metro at the Circo Massimo station and went on Rome's incredibly crowded subway system. The station remind me of London's underground and the trains themselves of New York with all its graffiti. The Metro took us to the train station (Rome Termini) where we bought our tickets to Venice and our bus ticket. We then hopped on the H bus back to our room at the Hotel Antio Borgo de Trastevere and then set out to find a great restaurant to reverse our two day trend of middling fare and service. We ended up at Il Pastarellaro which met the task with vigor. The food was excellent. Delicious pasta was paired with a bone-in meat cut that melted in the mouth. It was paired perfectly with mellow Barbera wine ended with a delicious dessert. Sated and filled with smiles from our meal, we walked back to the hotel to get some rest.

Thursday, August 2, 2007 - Rome

We neglected to tell the staff when we wanted breakfast, so we missed it. It worked out for the best as we slept in a bit and caught up on some sleep. After rising we went up to Rome Termini and got a quick pizza. After eating we went to the National Roman Museum nearby, viewing artifacts and artwork. In the basement was an impressive numismatic exhibit. Next we went to another museum across the way made from the former central baths of Rome. Afterward we took a stroll to the crypt where the Capuchin monks kept their remains in artful structures of bone. There was an inscription on the wall that said "You are what we were, we are what you will be". Next up we visited the pantheon which is a well maintained church inside. It also houses the remains of Raphael.

We made our way back to La Trastevere and came upon the Paris Restaurant. Once again we had a fabulous meal. Starting with prosciutto, following up with Ravioli in butter with sage, and ending with a meat dish, everything was delicioius. After dinner we headed back to the hotel for our last night in Rome.

Friday, August 3, 2007 - Rome & Venice

We woke up relatively early and made our way to Rome Termini on the H bus. Afer a little delay finding out which track the train was on we made our way to first class on the Eurostar train to Venice. The seats were comfortable and the scenery pretty, but there was an inconsolable toddler who was screaming and kicking the rear of my seat. That made the journey a bit less enjoyable.

Once in Venice it was immediately obvious that we were in a city like no other. Roads are replaced by canals and cars are banished. It is a magical place. We took the "bus" which was really a boat to the Arsenale dock and made our way to the Hotel de la Residenzia. It is a 15th centure castle converted to a hotel with beautiful furnishings and spacious accommodations. After wandering for a while we found a place for dinner that we thought looked good, but ended up being nothing special with a watered down house wine. After a stroll by Saint Mark's Place we headed back to our palatial abode and got some shuteye.

Saturday, August 4, 2007 - Venice

Upon waking we had breakfast service in the main hall of the hotel and then set out wandering around Venice. We again visited the Piazza San Marco (St. Mark's Place) and went window shopping by the countless little stores along the way. Some of the streets were incredibly narrow - the city fathers definitely optimized for the living spaces, not for walking. We made our way on foot to the Piazza de la Roma where we picked up our bus tickets to the airport for the following day. Then we met up with Ann-Marie's Aunt and Uncle by the train station after getting a nice pizza nearby. We joined them for cappuccino and conversation then took the water bus to Murano to see the famed glasswork being blown there.

We saw an amazing demonstration of glass being blown into incredible creations and then picked up some souvenirs. After we had our fill of the wonderful glass work, we headed back to the Castello, regrouped at our room, and then set out for a wonderful dinner at a nice restaurant off the beaten path. prosciutto started things off, followed by a delicious mushroom pasta and meat course. From there we headed back to our hotel, mindful of our early morning departure.

Sunday, August 5, 2007 - Venice & London

We woke up before dawn and took the water bus to the Piazza de la Roma to get to our bus to the Treviso airport. Once again we were to fly RyanAir. We had pastries and cappuccino with fresh squeezed orange juice (made in a machine which took un-peeled oranges in the top and dispensed juice at the bottom). After upgrading to priority and checking in we went to the duty free and got some items. I bought prosciutto and sparkling water for the flight. The RyanAir flight, as always, was cramped and uncomfortable, but the prosciutto and water made it a little better. We arrived at Stanstead, went through customs, and parted ways at Ann-Marie's bus stop to Heathrow.

I checked in to MaxJet and went through fast track security to the lounge. They had quite good food and drink and nice views of the runway. What I didn't know was that they did not have a working plane. After several hours of delay announcements they bussed us to a hotel, got us rooms, fed us, and told us that the flight was cancelled. They rebooked me on Virgin Atlantic's Upper Class service (usually a several thousand dollar ticket) and arranged transport to Heathrow the next morning. The hotel itself was nice with plush beds, modern furnishings, and a heated bathroom floor. After watching the BBC and ITN I fell soundly asleep.

Monday, August 6, 2007 - London & Washington, DC

After a 6 A.M. wake up call I was showered and into my emergency clothes I packed and I was taken by car to Heathrow on the other side of London. Once there, check-in was mostly painless and security went quickly, although they had me unbuckle my belt and felt my waist in a way that makes me think they owe me dinner or at least a drink. Once through I made my way to Virgin's Clubhouse. Wow. Talk about a lounge. It was huge with seats, recliners, bars, a restaurant, and copious refreshment.

I had a full English breakfast and then lounged in a recliner until my flight was called. Once on the plane I was treated to the plush amenities of Upper Class: spacious seats in their own alcoves that convert to flat beds, large personal video systems, complimentary massages, excellent service, and good food. Aside from some turbulence over the Northeast United States, it was a smooth flight and a fun experience. Touching down at Dulles Airport, my journey came to a close.